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How
to fix them!
These methods have proven
to be sound in practice and if followed
should give your screens the maximum possible
life in whatever conditions prevail in your
part of the UK.
All of the screens can
be fixed in any of the ways detailed below. There is no great skill
involved all that's required is common sense, patience and assistance.
Before beginning any work the bits that will not be seen once the
screen is up should be attended to first.
This means if fixing
to post and lath the posts need to be sound and well fixed in the
ground.
If fixing to a wall the wall itself should be sound and
the laths attached to it with strong screws.
Incidentally if
the screen is to be fixed to an existing fence that is a party boundary
you should fix laths from post to post so that should the neighbours
decide to change their panels they can do so without needing to
remove your screen. Obviously it is better to get the neighbours
consent to fix the screens on your side but to their posts but in some instances that just is not possible.
Should
there be any chance of confrontation then it is far better for you
to put up a post and lath system alongside the existing and fix
your screen to that.
Chain link fencing is not a normal boundary
fence but where the house backs onto commercial property or school
premises then it is likely to be encountered. Again if you can get
permission from the fence owner then go ahead and fix the screen
directly to the fence as outlined below.
How to " Fix to existing
fence"
Make sure existing wooden or concrete posts
are solid in the ground.
Fix 2 inch X 1.5 inch, 50
mm X 40 mm, (minimum)
tanalised roofing laths to posts at intervals of 18 inches using
galvanised or brass wood screws in timber posts, stainless or
galvanised concrete screws in concrete posts.
Lay a length of
3 inch X 2 inch timber on the ground along the line of the
existing fence. The purpose of this timber is to give a "drip
gap" which will allow rainwater to fall off the screen and
prevent the screen from soaking up moisture from the ground which
would considerably shorten its life. It also ensures you get the
top edge of the screen level.
Unroll the screen and stand it
up against the fence.
Fix securely down one edge with screws
and washers, galvanised nail in staples or even galvanised
garden wire.
Once one
edge is secure get your press ganged assistant to tension the screen along its
length. Tension means just tight so that the screen stays horizontal
and will not sag.
You can then move along the screen fixing it
to the laths using your chosen method at 2 to 3 feet intervals.
The more fixings you have the better the result.
Once you get
to the end of the run you will invariably have to trim the length.
Do your final fix and then cut the binding wires an inch or two
past the finished length. Remove the end strand of the screen material
and fold the binding wires back on themselves. This will secure
the end of the screen against unraveling.
Simply remove the 3
x 2 timber spacer and that's it all done.
How to "Fix
as a new boundary fence"
Install wooden fence post
of the appropriate height at intervals of six feet.
Make sure they
are at least 18 inches in the ground, square and vertical and make sure the concrete
has gone off before fixing the laths and screen. Fix roofing
laths as stated above at 18 inch intervals.
Carry out the fixing
exactly as outlined above.
How to "Fix to a wall"
First
make sure the wall is sound and not likely to collapse.
Fix tanalised
roofing laths directly to the wall at suitable intervals.
There
needs to be one at the top of the screen height and one 2 inches
away from the bottom edge and in between they need to be equally
spaced but there is no need to stick to the 18 inch gap 2 to 3 feet
is adequate.
Once the laths are up then it is the same procedure
as the methods above.
How to Fix to a chain link Fence
Ensure
the fence is well supported and is not likely to rust away soon after
fixing.
You have to be especially vigilant with plastic coated fencing
as once the plastic splits it lets water in and the steel mesh rots
away unnoticed inside.
The screen is fixed down one side with wire which
binds it to the fence. It needs to be resting on the 3 X 2 inch
timber to ensure the drip gap is maintained.
The amount of fixing
wires needed to ensure secure fixing depends on your patience! As
with other fixing methods the more you apply the better. When all
is finished remove the timber.
The
best screens for fixing to chain link or other mesh fences are thatch
and split cane. Bamboo is too heavy to be used in this way.
Common
Sense
Where the screens are to be
affixed to a wall or fence then it is better
if you paint it after the laths have been
fixed in place as it is possible to catch
glimpses of the underlying structure so
last years blue and primrose wall will need
to vanish under black or dark brown. Colouring
the laths the same renders them invisible
once the screen is fixed in place.
Being natural
products there is variety in the amount of privacy
these screens offer in standalone situations
so if total privacy is your number one concern
then fix two runs of screen to one set of
posts and laths.
Take care
when trimming the screens to length and
height. They all have steel wires binding
them and when these are cut the edges are
sharp.
Wearing thick gloves is not really
an option as you lose all of your feel for
the tension and makes using wire cutters
and secateurs difficult. Simply be aware
that there are potential hazards.
When the wires
have been cut always ensure you leave a
long piece that can be tucked back into
the screen and away from any possible contact
with skin.
The split cane and bamboo
are best cut to height on the roll using
a sharp hardpoint saw. Be aware the blade
will jam and bind but patience and persistence
will win the day. A saw such as an alligator
saw may also prove successful but we haven't
used one ourselves so we would recommend
a handsaw.
Thatch and Fern is best cut
after fixing using secateurs. There is no
getting away from it is a tedious job but
with a long piece of timber as a straight
edge it is possible to achieve an excellent
straight line. If a more free hand effect
or wavy edge is desired we would recommend
making a hardboard template and using this
to achieve the desired effect.
Reed is
easy to cut on the roll with a machete or
guillotine but as most of us do not have
access to these potentially lethal implements
it is best cut after fixing using secateurs,
or strong scissors or if you are good with
them hedging shears.
Always ensure
that there are no pipes or wires that you
may drill, screw or hammer into before fixing
the laths!
Always measure
things twice before cutting or ordering
as you would be surprised how many customers
come back to us for an "extra roll"
because of an measuring error.
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